{"id":169,"date":"2011-02-15T17:33:53","date_gmt":"2011-02-15T08:33:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.soulsmithing.com\/Blog\/?p=169"},"modified":"2023-01-02T12:58:37","modified_gmt":"2023-01-02T17:58:37","slug":"how-to-make-a-te-boki","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/2011\/02\/how-to-make-a-te-boki\/","title":{"rendered":"How to make a te-b\u014dki"},"content":{"rendered":"

Useful hand-held straw brush and tool<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"te-boki\"<\/p>\n

The te-b\u014dki (\u624b\u7b92 lit. “hand-broom”) are extremely useful tools during forging to hold down hot work, brush away scale, push back hot coals, hit apprentices (!), etc. At first sight they look pretty simple, but their making requires a bit of practice so that they become tough and rigid enough to sustain hard work. A good te-b\u014dki should neither bend nor twist even under a man’s full strength. Here are the basics to making them. The rest is practice…
\nBrosse-outil \u00e0 main tr\u00e8s utile<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"te-boki\"<\/p>\n

Les te-b\u014dki (\u624b\u7b92 litt. “balais \u00e0 main”) sont un\u00a0outil tr\u00e8s utile lors de\u00a0la forge pour tenir des pi\u00e8ces chaudes, brosser la calamine, repousser les charbons ardents, frapper les apprentis (!), etc. Au premier coup d’oeil, ils ont l’air plut\u00f4t simples, mais leur fabrication n\u00e9cessite un peu de pratique afin qu’ils soient assez durables et rigides pour tol\u00e9rer le labeur. Un bon te-b\u014dki ne devrait ni plier ni se tordre m\u00eame sous la pleine force d’un homme. Voici\u00a0la technique de base pour leur fabrication. Le reste.. c’est en forgeant qu’on devient forgeron!<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

You will need…<\/h3>\n

Well, straw! We obviously use rice straw, but I can’t imagine why some other types wouldn’t work.<\/p>\n

Beside strong steel wire and a couple of good pliers, you will also need a rough all-purpose knife, a solidly fastened vise, and a home-made nail-brush. A straw cutter is not absolutely necessary, but it’s very efficient at cutting loose and tied straw, and for finishing the tip of the brushes.<\/p>\n

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How to…<\/h3>\n

The first step is to measure the right amount of straw. I like to do this by filling the space made by joining in a circle the middle finger and the thumb.<\/p>\n

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Next the straw must be combed with the nail brush to align the stalks and remove messy leaves and branches. This will diminish the final amount of straw, so make sure to measure again.<\/p>\n

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Then \u2014 well, maybe you should start with this! \u2014 clamp a 15-20cm length of wire in the vise…<\/p>\n

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And make your first tie right in the center (see the next steps on how to make a tie). After you’ve made the first tie in the center, you need to fold the tips of the strands over (leaving the root part inside, acting as a bone). Make sure to fold them neatly and tightly.<\/p>\n

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To make a tie, you lie the bundle of straw against the wire on the opposite side of where you’re standing, and with the pliers go around the bundle as tight as possible, therefore ending by pulling towards yourself. You might want to do a second turn for more strength.<\/p>\n

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While still pulling and tightening, pivot the bundle counter-clockwise with your left hand to twist the wire ends together. This is usually when it snaps! With practice, you’ll learn to give in just a bit with your right hand as the wire pulls. The golden rule I figured out is that 3\/4 of a turn is best.<\/p>\n

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You then unclamp the wire and finish twisting the wire ends. To have a beautiful twist, your ends should be at a perfect symmetrically centered 90 degrees angle. The tightness of the twist will depend on the distance between the pliers and the root of the twist. Tight is good, too tight makes it snap. Cut off the extra wire and hammer it into the straw.<\/p>\n

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You should make between five and six ties on the outer side (plus one that is now hidden inside). After the ties are completed, you only need to cut off the extra straw and you’re done.<\/p>\n

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To know if you’ve made a good te-b\u014dki, try bending and twisting it with all your might. If it gives in, it’s no use trying it on red hot steel for heavy work, you’ll hurt yourself and get bad results. By the way, the te-b\u014dki are soaked in water for about a minute prior to hot use, otherwise they’re just burn like.. straw!<\/p>\n

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Vous aurez besoin…<\/h3>\n

Hmm.. de la paille! Nous utilisons \u00e9videment de la paille de riz, mais je ne peux voir pourquoi d’autres types ne feraient pas l’affaire.<\/p>\n

\u00c0 part du fil de fer fort, quelques bonnes paires de pinces, vous aurez aussi besoin d’un gros couteau tout usage, un \u00e9tau solidement fix\u00e9 et une brosse \u00e0 clou faite maison. Un coupe-paille n’est pas absolument n\u00e9cessaire, mais tr\u00e8s utile pour tailler la paille et finir le bout des balais de paille.<\/p>\n

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How to…<\/h3>\n

La premi\u00e8re \u00e9tape est de mesurer la quantit\u00e9 n\u00e9cessaire de paille. Ma m\u00e9thode consiste \u00e0 remplir l’espace form\u00e9 par la jonction en cercle de mon majeur et mon pouce.<\/p>\n

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La paille doit ensuite \u00eatre peign\u00e9e et nettoy\u00e9e \u00e0 l’aide de la brosse de clous. Cela diminuera un peu son volume, assurez-vous donc de l’ajuster.<\/p>\n

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Ensuite \u2014 en fait, vous devriez peut-\u00eatre commencer par \u00e7a!! \u2014 on doit serrer un bout de fil de fer de 15-20cm dans l’\u00e9tau…<\/p>\n

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..et faire la premi\u00e8re attache au centre (voir les \u00e9tapes suivantes sur comment r\u00e9aliser l’attache). Une fois l’attache compl\u00e9t\u00e9e au centre, on doit replier les tiges de la paille en laissant l’extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 racine au centre, jouant le r\u00f4le d’un os. Assurez-vous de les replier fermement et \u00e9l\u00e9gamment.<\/p>\n

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Pour r\u00e9aliser une attache, on applique la paille contre le fil de fer pr\u00e9c\u00e9dement serr\u00e9 dans l’\u00e9tau sur le c\u00f4t\u00e9 oppos\u00e9 \u00e0 soi. Avec les pinces, on enroule fil autour de la paille en revenant vers soi, toujours en serrant. On peut m\u00eame r\u00e9aliser un second tour pour plus de robustesse.<\/p>\n

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Tout en tirant et serrant, on pivote la paille dans le sens contraire des aiguilles d’une montre avec sa main gauche afin de tordre les extr\u00e9mit\u00e9s du fil de fer \u00e0 leur base. C’est alors que souvent, \u00e7a casse! Avec la pratique, on finit par trouver le juste \u00e9quilibre de tension et de torsion en sentant bien le fil. La r\u00e8gle d’or que j’ai trouv\u00e9 est de s’arr\u00eater \u00e0 3\/4 de tour.<\/p>\n

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On d\u00e9serre ensuite le fil de l’\u00e9tau et termine la torsade \u00e0 la pince. Pour obtenir une belle torsade, les deux bouts du fil devraient \u00eatre en angle de 90 degr\u00e9s sym\u00e9triquement centr\u00e9. La fermet\u00e9 de la torsade d\u00e9epndra de la distance entre les pinces et sa base. Ferme, c’est excellent, mais trop ferme et \u00e7a casse. Coupez l’extra de fil et marteler la torsade dans la paille.<\/p>\n

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On devrait retrouver entre cinq et six attaches sur l’ext\u00e9rieur (plus une devenue invisible \u00e0 l’int\u00e9rieur). Lorsqu’elles sont compl\u00e9t\u00e9es, on n’a plus qu’\u00e0 couper la paille en extra et le balais est compl\u00e9t\u00e9.<\/p>\n

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Pour savoir si on fabriqu\u00e9 un bon te-b\u014dki, on peut tenter de le plier et le tordre de toutes ses forces. S’il se laisse faire, il ne sert \u00e0 rien de l’utiliser lors de gros travaux \u00e0 chaud, car il en r\u00e9sulterait une blessure ou du mauvais travail. En finissant, les te-b\u014dki sont tremp\u00e9s dans l’eau environ une minute avant de travailler \u00e0 chaud, sinon ils brulent comme… un feu de paille!<\/p>\n

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Useful hand-held straw brush and tool The te-b\u014dki (\u624b\u7b92 lit. “hand-broom”) are extremely useful tools during forging to hold down hot work, brush away scale, push back hot coals, hit apprentices (!), etc. At first sight they look pretty simple, but their making requires a bit of practice so that they become tough and rigid […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":305,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-169","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-making","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/169","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=169"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/169\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1198,"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/169\/revisions\/1198"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/305"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=169"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=169"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/soulsmithing.com\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=169"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}